Located on the South American Continental Shelf, Tobago is washed
from the south by the turbulent Guyana Current and from the open
Atlantic to the east by the North Equatorial Current. The mixing
of these currents, combined with periodic pulses of nutrient-rich
water from the Orinoco River in the rainy season (June-December),
generates an abundance of plankton. This plankton is the base for
the unusually abundant and varied life found on Tobago's reefs.
The numerous fringing coral reefs surrounding Tobago are characteristically
rich in filter-feeding animals, such as sponges and soft corals.
The abundance of plankton also explains the massive size of some
of the hard corals such as the giant boulder brain coral off Speyside,
which is over 6 meters wide, and the huge barrel sponges that can
be seen in the Columbus passage south of Tobago.
Above the reefs, Tobago is noted for enormous shoals of planktivorous
fish that in turn attract schools of predatory fish such as jacks,
barracuda, wahoo, tarpon and tuna. Other large animals frequently
seen are sea turtles, reef sharks, hammerhead sharks, groupers,
eagle rays and manta rays. These members of Tobago's marine megafauna
are not only ecologically essential to the health and integrity
of the reef's ecosystems; they are also some of the most valuable
eco-tourism assets in the region. Tragically, some of these large
animals are also some of the most vulnerable.
Not surprisingly, diving is a rapidly expanding activity on the
island. Surface temperatures average between 26 and 31 degrees C
throughout the year, with excellent water clarity from January to
May. From June to December large volumes of fresh silt-laden water
from the Orinoco River pass between Trinidad and Tobago, occasionally
lowering inshore salinities to below the normal 36 ppt. These plumes
of green fresh water create noticeable temperature and salinity
gradients in the surface waters that add another level of intrigue
to the already other-worldly atmosphere of the reef.
Here is a quick summary of some of the best known reefs and dive
sites around Tobago.
Columbus Passage
Diver's Dream, Diver's Thirst, Flying Reef, Cove Reef are some
of the dive sites located in the Columbus Passage, one of the top
drift-diving locations in the Caribbean. These sites have strong
currents that flow in a westerly direction, which sweep past the
island's at speeds ranging from a leisurely half-knot to a blistering
4 knots. This constant water movement sculpts sea fans and giant
barrel sponges into strange shapes. Turtles, eagle rays and reef
sharks are usually seen on these exhilarating dives.
Caribbean
The reefs and dive sites along Tobago's Caribbean coast are some
of the most beautiful on the island. The currents are less strong
than in the Columbus passage, and the hard coral reefs at Arnos
Vale and Culloden are some of the best to be seen. The Wreck of
the Maverick, sunk in 1997 off Mt. Irvine, is invariably abundant
in fish life, with schools of barracuda, grunts, triggerfish and
jacks. Close encounters with giant jewfish are not uncommon, and
always unforgettable. The Sister's Rocks is a spectacular dive that
consists of a cluster of rock pinnacles which breaks the surface
and drops to a depth of 140 feet. This area is the home for large
pelagics and a residential population of hammerhead sharks that
are usually seen against the open blue waters, while lobsters and
moray eels stay close to the reef.
Speyside
Japanese Gardens, Black Jack Hole, Kelleston Drain, Bookend, and
St. Giles are some of the varied and beautiful dives off the northeastern
coast of Tobago. These dives are mainly for advanced divers, where
conflicting currents create a playground for mantas, barracuda,
and tarpon. Other current patterns offer more gentle drifts along
sloping reef covered with hard corals, sponges, sea fans and sea
plumes. Multitudes of damselfish, blue chromis, creole wrasse, angelfish,
butterfly fish, and parrotfish add infinite colour, under the permanent
gaze of roaming jacks, snappers and barracuda. Manta rays are frequent
visitors.
Buccoo Reef